In short, this is the best Gallifrey story of the first series, in part because it's pretty atypical of the series tone in general. On the one hand, that's rather damning with faint praise; on the other, if they can experiment like this from time to time, then Gallifrey will be all the richer for it. Like the other non-Dalek Empire spin-offs (Sarah Jane Smith, UNIT, Cyberman), I feel it takes that first series to find your feet, but fingers crossed that, like the first of those three, Gallifrey will go on to better things.
"I can tell you are lying. It is when your lips move."
"Cascade of the heavens. I do love a touch of the old Sturm und Drang."
Leela's last scene with Andred (formerly 'Torvald') in the rain is heartbreaking: "I see my enemy in my enemy's clothes, and my heart runs cold. Because I see too that the man I loved is dead. I need no comfort. My husband is dead. I have done my grieving."
Leela having the opportunity, in September 1939, to kill Torvald before he kills her husband is a neat, era-appropriate twist on the old "let's kill Hitler" idea (they'll do a Doctor Who episode about that one day, you mark my words).